This is the little compartment under the bottom step. It’s cut out next to the engine so that I can get to the raw water pump. I am going to make a small panel that fits there to keep it separate from the engine space. There’s also a small ‘floor’ that goes in here to separate it from the bilge as well. From left to right we have the Blue Sea ACR up top and the battery bank use switch below it. To the right of that is the positive bus (that’ll have a cover as well), then the shunt for the Victron BMV-712 and below that the negative bus. To the right is a post for the negative battery cables and far right is the fresh water pump for the galley. There’s a ton of crap crammed in there but it’s all usable. Hooking up the start/reserve battery next, it’s in the bilge space immediately forward of this.
Added one more pic from tonight. All battery cables are in. Some wire looms still to be installed but the hard part is done. Wrestling those big cables is a pain.
I have been obsessing about this table for a while. It’s a huge expanse of varnished wood that you see when you first get in the boat. It’s finished with 2 coats of WEST system with the 207 hardener and then 3 coats of varnish. I realized that I’d end up pricking the top with dividers at some point and after a couple of years the varnish would look terrible so I bought a leather desk writing surface and glued it onto the top. It looks great. Pics are a bit washed out as it was rather dark when I took them and I hadn’t bothered to plug the boat in for light.
There was a fire extinguisher mounted on the bottom of it when I got the boat, hence the filled holes on the left side. Still, in person it looks amazing, even with the repairs.
I installed the regulator, the new alternator, battery cables, charging wires, fuse for the alternator positive. Wired the bilge pump. Plumbed the coolant overflow tank. Hooked up the fuel lines. The engine compartment is pretty close to being able to be buttoned up. I still need to tighten the fitting at the fuel pump and the alternator alignment is off and it’s off because the mount is holding the alternator too far forward. It couldn’t be the easy fix, where it’s too far back and I can just shim it. Of course not. It’s $60 bucks for a facing tool to cut that back about 1/8″ so it aligns right. So I’ll have one if anyone else has the same problem and wants to borrow it. Otherwise, it’s looking pretty good.
Just another pic of the cabinets all installed but now all the trim is there and the hasps that hold the top step on are installed. I realized after I got these all installed that I still need to run the hookups for the through-hull sensors so I’ll have to remove at least one piece of trim to snake that through. I should have done all the wiring before I put the interior back in.
Battery charger is in power supply mode and providing power for the boat so I can check everything. Everything that should work works.
Red map light at the nav station.
I added an engine room LED light aft to light up the nether regions for adjusting the packing gland and whatnot. Really bright, $15 at West Marine.
I added one circuit when this was done and had to redo all those zip ties on the right. But it was worth it for the engine room lamp.
Instruments on and working properly. The light on the compass is a little janky, I’ll have to revisit that at some point.
Stuck inside on a snowy day so I thought I’d upload a couple of pics. This is the original 12v panel the boat came with. The little bar over on the right is the original negative bus, a hunk of bronze. The plastic blog is the terminal block. Set screws hold the wires in. They’re all badly corroded.
The new panel is obviously more robust with charge monitoring, AC panel, USB and lighter-plug sockets, and more granular control over circuits. I’m not sure what state of the art for Swedish boats was 39 years ago but I feel like the new incarnation is pretty good.
The counter is installed which makes a ton of other stuff able to be installed. The cabinet above the engine and the engine cover as well as the sink. I need to get some handles on the doors for that cabinet before I can screw it down but it’s coming together. That green piece of G10 is to cover the inside of the old through-hull hole. I still have to fill the outside but I’ve taken to epoxying ‘caps’ on the inside so I know where to stop grinding and to cover it so I can vacuum bag the repair.
On my previous post I had installed the negative bus bars and linked them to the main bus bar with 10 awg wire. After consideration I didn’t like that so I redid them with 4 awg to avoid issues with current capacity. Technically the 10 would work but if I had an overcurrent condition with multiple breakers the fuse at the other end of those big feeders wouldn’t have blown before the 10 awg wire would have been in flames. Now if there’s an overcurrent condition the breakers should catch it, and if not, the big fuse at the other end will.